Best Material For Gravel Driveway – You can easily create a gravel path. And if you have a few basic rules, then you have your pleasure in it. At the very beginning, it is said that a gravel or grit covering is by no means inferior. In parks, it is even much more pleasant on such a subsoil than on paving stones. Here are my construction tips:
Important also in the simplest gravel coating is:
- The drainage of the path is the A and O. The rainwater must be able to drain completely.
- Apply top coat only thinly with 2/8er grain size. Repeat every year.
- Always keep some material in stock! It can also be used as winter streak.
However, you must know that a simple garden path without a substructure is something entirely different than a built garden path with a so-called “water-bound cover.”
A simple gravel or chippy path is a pure footpath. With the passenger car or even with heavier vehicles such roads are broken. The exceptions are times when the path is frozen (winter) or dry (summer). In such times, heavy-duty driving is also possible.
The directly built garden path will hold and function as well as it can derive the rain or dew water. For this reason, it is advisable to keep the leach area (lawn) beside the path. Also, the path should always be a little higher. If it falls a bit obliquely to the sides, (1-2% slope = 1-2cm height difference on 1m), then the water runs well.
Gravel Driveway Method
Usually, you have a trail in the garden, which is to be fixed. The terrace is similar. The vegetation is removed on the full path width or terraced surface. If the grass is removed, it is important to check that the path is level and water can drain everywhere. If this is not the case, unevenness and indentations must be compensated. As already described above, the rainwater must be able to run obliquely – not in the direction of the house fundament, of course. In the case of major differences in height between the path and the surrounding area, which could lead to a muddling of the path, the system of a septic tank is installed.
If a soil has to be filled up, then eroded soil can be used. If none is available, then you take gravel with little parts. The compaction of the path thus prepared would then be optimal with a vibrating plate (this can be borrowed). Now the path is provided with a cover layer. (The material should not be muddy even in rainy weather.) It is applied with gravel or grit (3/6 or 3/8 mm) 2 cm high. This is then compacted again with the vibrating plate and, if necessary, a thin layer of the gravel is applied again.
If you do not have a vibrating plate on hand, this works without mechanical compression. Through the use of the path alone, the soil and the gravel layer intensify. In this case, however, you should apply a thin gravel over a longer period (2x per year). So never pound a layer of 3cm at a time. Otherwise, you sink with the shoes regularly into the gravel or chips.
By the way, gravel is more beautiful than crushed gravel. However, the chipboard made of a split is more durable. In any case, you always have to keep a small supply of road bugs so that you can repair the surfaces immediately. For the winter you need any grits, and so you hit two birds with one stone.
Simple Gravel Path – the Better Variant, Sand-Lined Garden Path
If you have to drive gravel anyway and if you have a jogger anyway, then you can also work with a little more effort: Better than the above-described variant, if you dig at least 15cm deep the ground. This creates a planar surface, which is also intended to be applied in the appropriate inclination to allow rainwater to flow off. This so-called plenum is also compacted.
If, as shown in the picture on the right, you want to install a border, you can use such a sheet edge or place bricks. In both cases, the gravel mixture of the path is better together than without boundary limitation. Both the edge of the sheet and the ridge edge must be set so flat that they are not a hindrance for the lawnmower. They should also be flush with the road, in order not to hinder the drainage of the rainwater. Rasenkantensteine is attached with somewhat lean concrete.
Here the already described crushed stone (absolutely with little parts, not sifted!) Is inserted and compacted with the vibrating plate. If available, then 1cm of layered sand is applied (all work in an earth-moist state). The sand must have clay parts in any case. This is the type of sand, which is also used for children’s sandbox. So a construction project would be a good reason to use the old play and for the way and to supply the shoots with a new game material.
The sand is now “carefully” lined with water, i.e., you bring about a 1-2cm of sand layer and watering it vigorously with a watering can. The sand must seep into the underlying gravel and connect with it. This is followed by a 1cm layer of coverslip or gravel of 2/8mm or 2/5mm grain size. Then the surface is smoothed with the vibrator. This is a simplified procedure to create a so-called water-based cover, where you can get along with a few materials. This is also referred to as sand-lined paths (former name).
From the top layer, you should always have some material in stock and sprinkle some chips every year in the spring and if necessary re-compact. However, the path and equipment should always have a certain essential moisture content. It is also advantageous to apply two thin layers during repair or maintenance work. After compaction, the first bed is cautiously floated with water, allowed to dry briefly and then worked further.